LIGHTLY SPRINKLED – The making of KYO CHIJIMI FRIKAKE
L'arimatsu-shibori est le terme générique désignant le shibori (teinture par nœuds) du coton pratiqué dans les quartiers d'Arimatsu-cho et de Narumi-cho de la ville de Nagoya, préfecture d'Aichi. Il a commencé et s'est développé au début de la période Edo (1603-1867), lorsque des serviettes à main shibori et d'autres articles similaires étaient vendus comme souvenirs aux voyageurs sur la route de Tokaido. Depuis lors, l'arimatsu-shibori a été produit en masse dans plus de 100 types différents de motifs shibori utilisant diverses méthodes telles que le nouage, la couture et le liage du tissu. Le kumo-shibori, l'un de ces motifs, est connu comme le motif de teinture par nœuds le plus courant.
Pour le Kumo-shibori, une partie du tissu est nouée à la main et teinte. Après la teinture, la partie nouée est dénouée et un motif de toile d'araignée apparaît (kumo signifie araignée en japonais). Cependant, HaaT se concentre sur le shibori dans son état noué et vise à faire en sorte que la belle forme organique du shibori soit mémorisée dans les vêtements. Créée sur la base de cet objectif, la série KUMOSHIBORI applique la propriété de mémoire de forme du polyester et incorpore les bosses du shibori dans le design.
The creative process is a modern riff on traditional Japan. The methods are rooted in old techniques long used by obi makers, kimono dyers and painters, who typically used bamboo tools to wrist-flick glues, dyes, inks and paints – particularly when evoking atmospheric natural scenes, from snowfall to misty skies. For FRIKAKE, the artisans’ movements seem still, even, measured – yet the process hovers perfectly along the fine line between masterly control and wild beauty. The end result? Surface scatterings imbued with a spirit of freedom and joyful spontaneity. Meanwhile, imperfections meld into the creative process. Light bleeding irregularly occurs along the taped lines. The outcome is further impacted by humidity levels in different seasons of the year. Artisans balance technical expertise without being overly controlling – instead, embracing the edges of imperfection more typically found in the natural world. These artisans are unwavering masters of their dyeing skills not only through their actions, but also by knowing when to surrender to elements of the process beyond human control – as perfectly embodied by the scattered beauty of the FRIKAKE series.
KUMOSHIBORI
Arimatsu-shibori is the general term for the cotton shibori (tie-dyeing) conducted in the Arimatsu-cho and Narumi-cho areas of Nagoya City, Aichi Prefecture. It began and flourished in the early Edo period (1603-1867), when shibori hand towels and other such items were sold as souvenirs to travelers on the Tokaido Highway. Since then, Arimatsu-shibori has been mass-produced in more than 100 different types of shibori patterns using various methods such as tying, sewing, and binding the cloth. Kumo-shibori, one of these patterns, is known as the most common tie-dye design.
For Kumo-shibori, part of the cloth is tied by hand and dyed. After dyeing, the tied part is untied and a spiderweb pattern is revealed (kumo means spider in Japanese ). However, HaaT focuses on the shibori in its tied state, and aims to make the beautiful, organic form of the shibori be remembered in the garments. Created based on this aim, the KUMOSHIBORI series applies the shape-memory property of polyester and incorporates the bumps of the shibori into the design.
KUMOSHIBORI est désormais devenu un incontournable de la série HaaT. Nous avons continué à utiliser les petites bosses Kumo-shibori pour ajouter une charmante décoration aux zones du cou et aux ourlets des vêtements.
